This omakase ventures where others haven’t. The intrigue starts with a doorman speaking into an earpiece as he escorts you through Yugen’s many layers. Your destination is the sushi counter,its stone the colour of otoro tuna.

You’ll eat that and three other cuts of bluefin,some that nearly dissolve in your mouth,others that are firm and bold. Sweet,pure paradise prawn is brushed with sambal as fishy as a suitcase of cash. Kingfish goes from wallflower to wild child after a quick scorch and a dab of yuzu kosho.

A mochi taco clutching hojicha,strawberry jam and white chocolate is a cute and clever finish. The mezzanine of a clubby restaurant is not the serenest of settings,but the pampering is A-grade and the sake selection outstanding. Are you feeling daring?

Continue thisseries

Melbourne’s Southern Suburbs

Previous

Yugen Dining

Underground den where dishes draw on China and Japan.

See all stories