The temple onsite at Jimbaran Puri.
These baskets are everywhere in Bali,and I’ve never paid them much attention. How is it that something so ubiquitous isn’t really seen? How embarrassing is it that I know nothing about this daily part of the Balinese culture I appreciate?
And so,I’m up at dawn at Jimbaran Puri for a first-light ceremony with a quiet lady named Ari Dewi,and I’m determined to learn something new. The first thing I learn is that these household offerings are called canang sari. They give thanks to Hindu deities and appease whatever demons might be lurking.
Ari from the Jimbaran Resort with one of the offerings.
Demons are few at Jimbaran Puri,a resort of exquisite tranquillity shaded by frangipani and giant bamboo and lapped by the sea. Though true,it tempts me to sloth around the perfectly mirrored swimming pool,and gluttony over another dish of Balinese chicken at the restaurant,whose tables sink into sand and sunsets.
Balinese women make multiple canang sari twice a day. Small baskets are folded like origami from palm or banana leaves and filled with flowers and other offerings such as rice,banana,oil,salt and small change. Sometimes unlit cigarettes or store-bought sweets are added. Ari frowns upon such modernity but adds a tiny paper cup of freshly brewed coffee.
The resort’s breakfast buffet supplies a rolled pandan crepe stuffed with jackfruit,grated coconut and palm sugar. I can see why the gods like that:I’ve overindulged every morning myself. Each component and its colour has meaning. A sliver of lime and blue flowers such as hydrangea represent Shiva. Betel nuts are for Vishnu,anything coloured red for Brahma. Everything is carefully arranged in the compass directions.
When we’re done arranging,the canang sari are sprinkled with a frangipani flower dipped in water. Incense sticks are the finishing flourish. We recite a prayer or wish and deposit the offerings at one of the resort’s small altars,and on the path’s edge.