By the time the massive Panama Canal project was completed in 1914,an estimated 22,000 workers had perished from accidents,tropical diseases and the punishing heat. Learn about their fate and the staggering international effort it took to build the greatest infrastructure the world had ever seen at the Interoceanic Canal Museum (known locally as the Panama Canal Museum). It’s housed in one of the most impressive of Casco Viejo’s historic buildings,once the Grand Hotel,constructed in 1874. The well-curated exhibits delve into Panama’s history and identity from ancient times to modern sovereignty. Seemuseodelcanal.com
The beach
The nearby island of Taboga is where travellers can get their beach fix.Credit:iStock
Despite its waterfront location,Panama City isn’t blessed with a lot of clean,swimmable beaches. Choose a hotel with a pool because the humidity can be intense. The alternative is an excursion to the fishing island of Taboga,just 30 minutes by fast ferry. It’s a pretty island,home to Playa Restinga,where visitors can enjoy beachside dining,swimming,kayaking and snorkelling. If you’re up for a hike,the lookouts at Cerro Vigia and Cerro de la Cruz reward the effort with fantastic views of Panama City. The beach and the hills are far less crowded on weekdays. Seetourismpanama.com
The restaurant
Chef Jose Olmedo Carles daily-changing menu of modern Panamanian cuisine is about as fresh as it gets.
The name,Fonda Lo Que Hay (“Whatever’s Available”),says a lot about what you can expect at this wildly popular Old Quarter restaurant. Sparks fly in the open kitchen as chef Jose Olmedo Carles and his team turn the day’s market finds and fresh catch into dishes that celebrate modern Panamanian cuisine in surprising ways. The menu changes daily,but a few favourites are usually available,including the tuna carpaccio with house ceviche sauce,served on a mat of toasted yucca. For dessert,a mound of crushed ice – hand-cranked in a vintage crusher – comes with fresh fruit syrups,condensed milk,honey and other toppings. Seefondaloquehay.com
The way to get around
Uber is widely available in Panama City at prices so low you won’t believe your eyes. A 25-minute ride from the Financial District to the Old Quarter costs less than $5 (don’t forget to tip). Coming from Tocumen International Airport,expect to pay a bit more,around $20. Cars are less frequently available outside the capital city,but most drivers won’t mind taking you anywhere within the relatively small country. The distance from Panama City to the cruise port in Colon,for example,is approximately 74 kilometres and typically takes an hour. Seeuber.com
The souvenir
Known throughout the world as the Panama hat,the ubiquitous straw hats are in fact made in Ecuador. Legend has it that during the years it took for the Panama Canal to be constructed,workers needed lightweight head coverings to protect them from the harsh Central American sun. Hats woven from toquilla straw in Ecuador filled the bill perfectly. Today the stylish,sun-smart accessories are sold all over Panama City,from boutiques in the Old Quarter,to the airport and shopping malls of downtown. No longer confined to traditional white or natural straw shades,they come in a rainbow of colours and can be rolled up for easy packing.
The side-trip
A day trip out to the idyllic San Blas Islands is a must.Credit:iStock
While it’s possible to see at least some of the San Blas Islands in one (very long) day trip from Panama City,it would be a shame to rush by all the stunning natural beauty and toes-in-the-sand serenity. The islands,located in the north-west of the country,facing the Caribbean Sea,are mostly uninhabited. The larger islands are home to the indigenous Kuna people,who carefully manage visitor access and have so far avoided the pitfalls of over tourism. Best way to get around is by boat,so join a sailing tour or charter a private vessel. Seesanblas-islands.com
One more thing
Cruises departing from Panama City head to interesting ports in Central America and the Caribbean,including Aruba,Costa Rica and Colombia. A shiny new cruise terminal,Fuerte Amador,opened at the end of 2022,with plans to welcome mega-ships and other vessels (an existing port terminal is an hour’s drive away in Colon). Just a few minutes from the port,Biomuseo is dedicated to Panama’s natural history and environment. The colourful Frank Gehry-designed building is worth a look. Seebiomuseo.org
The writer was a guest of NCL’s Panama Canal&Caribbean cruise. Seencl.com