We were on the banks of a river,the Vltava,which swept in a U-shape through the town. It was lined by fairytale cottages in reds and yellows,with triangular roofs,carved shutters and flowering vines. A castle loomed above us,which seemed built into the hill. I had never seen anything so breathtaking. We were giddy with wonder and awe. We had little money but oodles of time,so we stayed in that little room for the best part of a week,riding rubber tubes around the river’s U-bend by day and having picnics on the river’s banks by night.
That moment on the balcony captured the spirit of my European summer of 1995. The year before,we’d been schoolgirls,struggling under the pressure of the HSC and then juggling multiple jobs to save for our gap year adventure. As we stepped off the plane at Heathrow,we were butterflies emerging from the chrysalis,gaping in wonder and intoxicated by our new freedom.
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We had no safety net. There were no mobile phones,no internet and no email. Eastern Europe had only emerged from communist rule six years earlier,so tourist infrastructure was slight.
Our parents,sick with worry (I feel for them,now I have children of my own),could only hope we’d check in with the occasional reverse-charge phone call. Those wildly expensive calls were short;enough time for an “I’m OK,I love you” (and the odd request for money),not enough for a rundown of the nights spent at train stations.