While some accidents were unavoidable,reckless,macho drivers were blamed for many. Some drove sleep-deprived,others guzzled alcohol and chewed coca leaves – while asking Pachamama,a goddess revered by the indigenous people of the Andes,for a safe passage. Their prayers weren't always answered.
Although it was widely known by the moniker the Death Road,in 1995 the Inter-American Development Bank labelled it the"world's most dangerous road"– a name that cycling tour companies have latched on to with aplomb. Thankfully our bikes seem perfect for the bumpy drama facing us. Valued at about $4000 each,they're blessed with rock-solid suspension,ultra-reactive hydraulic brakes and fat tyres with a super grip.
At first,everyone plods along the gravel like a snail. But it becomes apparent that the slower you go,the more juddering – and painful – the journey will be,especially for your hands.
However,it's only when the snaking track widens and the cliff edges are bordered by thicker bush growth that I feel confident enough to loosen my grip on the brakes. When I do,I experience some of the biggest adrenaline buzzes of my life. Omar ensures that we don't get carried away,stopping every 10 or 15 minutes to talk us through the next section. In any case,salutatory warnings against complacency are everywhere.
Crosses and memorial sites dot the roadsides,with one in particular drawing a collective lump to our throats. It pays tribute to a 22-year-old backpacker who was killed in May. A makeshift wooden barrier covers the spot from which he tumbled. As we stare at it,a small truck whizzes past,churning up a blinding cloud of dust. We hope it's the last,too.
Despite the road's morbid overtones,it's quite beautiful. The top is arid,bleak and bone-chillingly cold but as we descend a lush,balmy subtropical Eden-like world of green forested mountainsides,flowers and coca plantations greets us. Eagles swoop above our helmets and birdsong peppers the air.
The picturesque Yunga Valleys,as they're known,separate Bolivia's mountainous plain from the Amazonian rainforests and they're a feast for the senses.
Five hours after leaving La Cumbre,we skirt through shallow creeks and roll into Coroico,where locals are carrying machetes and lugging giant bags of coca leaves on their shoulders.
A few minutes later,Omar signals for us to stop. “Congratulations,” he says,his smile widening. “You've survived the world's most dangerous road.” Sweaty and tired but happy and relieved,we all agree it was an incredible experience;one that,despite the potential pitfalls,we'd do again.
TRIP NOTES
B-Side Adventures (bside-adventures.com) offers guided cycling tours of the"world's most dangerous road",priced from 440 bolivianos. This includes all equipment,snacks and lunch,plus CD and video footage of your ride.