Beijing has some extraordinary architecture,nowhere better showcased than at Beijing Olympic Park,with its famous"Bird's Nest"National Stadium (n-s.cn) and bubble-like National Aquatics Centre (water-cube.com),which now houses a water amusement park. The 2008 Olympics precinct remains popular with locals for evening strolls. For more of contemporary Beijing,check out 798 Art District (798district.com),the most avant-garde arts zone in the country,where galleries,studios and design companies now compete with trendy restaurants and nightclubs.

MUST

Beijing's Back Lakes district,with its lakeshore promenades,walled alleys and imperial-era courtyard houses,is perfect for strolling,bar hopping and visiting sights such as 18th-century Prince Gong's Mansion (pavilions and gardens) and the Former Residence of Song Qingling (1950s communist chic). Finish eastwards at South Luogu Lane,a rare Yuan Dynasty leftover laid out in 1267 and lovely in the evening,when red lanterns glimmer and student bars fill up.

SLEEP

The uber-glamorous Sofitel Wanda Beijing (sofitel.com) has a perfumed lobby sparkling with crystal,very comfortable rooms and a decor that blends subtle French and Tang Dynasty motifs. It has two excellent Chinese restaurants,and several others including one serving top-end French fare. A good mid-range,low-key alternative is Novotel Beijing Peace Hotel (novotel.com),in a hard-to-beat location surrounded by shops and eateries near Tiananmen Square. It has family rooms and play areas for children.

TIP

Allow an extra day in Beijing for an excursion to the Ming Tombs (mingtombs.com) and Great Wall,most easily visited at Badaling 80 kilometres north-west. For a less crowded experience,consider more distant sections at Mutainyu or Simatai.

Brian Johnston has visited Beijing numerous times at his own expense.