An impressive privately owned garden open to the public is Cloudehill (89 Olinda-Monbulk Road,phone 9751 1009),established by the Woolrich family in the 1890s.

Other attractions

- Wild Oak Cooking School. Learn the gentle art of food preparation. It also runs food tours of the region (232 Ridge Road,phone 9751 2033).

- Olinda Health and Spa. This day spa offers a neat contrast to the nearby shopping and dining options (1606 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road,phone 9751 0662).

- Olinda Golf Course. The cafe is worth dropping in to for its views across the greens to the forest beyond (75 Olinda-Monbulk Road,phone 9751 1399).

Shopping

Olinda's busy shopping strip,crowded on weekends,is flush with shops selling homewares,furniture and craft items.

Here are a few of its more memorable places to browse.

- Treasures of Istanbul. Packed with brightly coloured ceramics,including some hand-painted tiles,and Turkish rugs up to 20 square metres in area (6 Parsons Lane,phone 9751 1406).

- Freyja. A pleasant surprise among the lace and bookshelves,this fashion boutique is an outlet for successful local designer Tamarind Croft. (45 Olinda-Monbulk Road,phone 9751 0755).

- Herbicious Delicious. Great range of cookware from across the world,along with Yarra Valley produce and Herbie's Spices. If you thought ras el hanout was a James Bond villain,pick up the Moroccan spice and become enlightened (10 Parsons Lane,phone 9751 0026).

- Idyllism. An unusual range of New Age items,along with jewellery made of rare stones such as larimar and gaspeite. In good weather,palm readers,tarot readers and clairvoyants give readings on the grass outside the shop. Yes,you do have to book for the clairvoyant (10 Parsons Lane,phone 9751 0058).

- Olinda Sweet Company. An old favourite,stocked with chocolates from across the world,including the strangely salty Dutch variety of liquorice. Surprisingly,there's a shelf of naughty sweets for hen parties and the like. You'll be pleased the edible candy bra pack contains the relevant nutritional information (37 Monash Avenue,phone 9751 1788).

Where to eat

- Pie in the Sky. It's cheap,it's cheerful,it's packed with tourists but it does make very nice pies. Flavours range from the usual suspects through to the Asian excursions such as beef rendang and chicken korma (43 Olinda-Monbulk Road,phone 9751 2128).

- Immerse. A relatively new arrival,serving Olinda's best coffee and dishes with lots of local ingredients. Includes a produce shop and a cellar door for the winery of the same name (17 Olinda-Monbulk Road,phone 9751 0466).

- The Ivy. Big,breezy restaurant on a street corner with plenty of space and sunshine. Mostly serves Italian dishes in a modern interior with a touch of retro stonework (540 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road,phone 9751 2388).

- Credo. Roomy eatery serving Mediterranean-inspired food in a refreshingly minimalist interior (543 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road,phone 9751 1844).

- SkyHigh. Though it hasn't entirely cast off its 1970s Sunday drive feel,the bistro at the top of Mount Dandenong has been renovated impressively in recent years. Its menu caters deftly to every price range and demographic known to humanity. The view across Melbourne by night is as fantastic as ever,so book at least a month in advance if you want one of the five tables placed right up against the window (26 Observatory Road,phone 9751 0443).

Where to stay

- Lochiel. Its leaflets provocatively assert"No olde worlde! No lace!". The decor of these cottages facing the forest is indeed very contemporary (1590 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road,phone 9751 2300;seelochielaccommodation.com).

- The Loft in the Mill. This is B&B accommodation in a mock-medieval style. The King Arthur room,for example,is dominated by a replica of Excalibur,which is situated in a nook above a black spa bath (1 Harold Street,phone 9751 1700;seeloftinthemill.com.au).

- Candlelight Cottages. Compact,comfortable cottages within walking distance of the shopping strip. The decor is traditional without veering into the floral (7 Monash Avenue,phone 1300 553 011;seecandlelightcottages.com.au).

- Delvin Health Retreat. A 1970s guesthouse-style place with an added bonus the proprietor is a qualified masseur and offers massage,facials,yoga instruction,meditation and counselling. Oh,and dinner (25 Monash Avenue,phone 9751 1800;seedelvin.com.au).

- Como Cottages. Six cottages spread over two locations,including a century-old house on the shopping strip (1465 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road,phone 9751 2264;seecomocottages.com).

Events

- Hanami,the cherry blossom day at the National Rhododendron Gardens,September 20.

- Spring Floral Festival,National Rhododendron Gardens,August to November.

Getting there

Infrequent route 694 and 698 buses head to Olinda from the Belgrave and Upper Ferntree Gully stations on the Belgrave line,some continuing to the top of Mount Dandenong. From the north,bus 688 to Olinda departs from Croydon station on the Lilydale line. Check timetables (phone 131 638;metlinkmelbourne.com.au) in advance.

By road from Melbourne,Olinda is an hour's drive along Burwood Highway and Mount Dandenong Tourist Road.

More information

Contact the Dandenong Ranges and Knox Visitor Information Centre (1211 Burwood Highway,Upper Ferntree Gully,phone 1800 645 505),or seeolindavillage.com.au andvisitvictoria.com.

Tim Richards travelled courtesy of Tourism Victoria.