Marramarra Lodge.Credit:Isabel Darling
As a commuter,I was always captivated by the tranquil landscape of the Hawkesbury River on the otherwise monotonous train journey between the Central Coast and Sydney. For 13 blissful minutes,the busy urban streets and graffiti-covered buildings along the train line were replaced by an almost otherworldly scene unfolding outside the window.
Mobile phone reception waned,causing a literal and metaphorical disconnection as the train snaked its way along the gentle,glass-like river,which is framed by honey-coloured sandstone chasms and thick bushland.
But the Hawkesbury River,which marks the northern edge of Sydney,is so much more than a magical interlude on a dull train trip. The region that surrounds it is rich in Indigenous and colonial history.
The heartland of the Dharug people thanks to its rich soil and clean water (its Aboriginal name,Dyarubbin,means"wide,deep water"),it became a frontier in the conflicts between European settlers and First Nations people. The heritage-listed,convict-built Old Great North Road,which runs through Dharug National Park,is a reminder of these times,as are the charming,well-preserved buildings in historic townships,such as Windsor,located along the river.
While the area today is frequented by boating and fishing enthusiasts,the Hawkesbury remains something of a hidden gem,despite being a quick and easy drive from Sydney. Here are some suggestions of the best things to see and do.
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Join the local postie for the day Operating since 1910,the Riverboat Postman delivers mail to isolated settlements upriver from Brooklyn. Visitors can join the daily run,taking in the picturesque scenery and hearing stories from the local skippers while enjoying lunch on board.riverboatpostman.com.au
Follow the harvest trail The Hawkesbury Harvest Trail showcases some of the best foodie experiences,including pick-your-own fruit,farmers'markets,orchards,nut farms and even native bush foods.harvesttrailsandmarkets.com.au
Visit a"shellar door"Operated by third-generation pearl farmers,Broken Bay Pearls is NSW's only pearl farm and its"shellar door"in Mooney Mooney is one of a kind. Join a cruise out to the oyster farms in the lower Hawkesbury,learn about Indigenous pearling and witness live harvesting of the rare Akoya pearl.pearlsofaustralia.com.au