Over the top:The Palace,pool,Botanical Gardens,Lost City Golf Course and Sun Vacation Club.

Over the top:The Palace,pool,Botanical Gardens,Lost City Golf Course and Sun Vacation Club.

For many people,these facts alone would prevent them from ever setting foot in the place. And I respect that decision. But I confess I’m intrigued. First,to see how Sun City positions itself today given it’s no longer the only place in South Africa where you can gamble and see big-name performers.

And,secondly,because it sounds kinda nuts – a sprawling 32-square-kilometre mega-resort in a jungle-filled valley 170 kilometres north-west of Johannesburg that contains four hotels,two Gary Player-designed golf courses,an artificial lake and a giant waterpark. Plus,it’s adjacent to Pilanesberg National Park,home to the Big Five and more than 300 bird species.

I have two nights at the swankiest of the resort’s four properties,the allegedly five-star Palace of the Lost City,which erupts from the surrounding jungle in aJumanji-like riot of fake stone columns,soaring archways and elaborate dome-topped towers. Inside it’s equally bonkers – a colourful,jungle-themed blizzard of murals,mosaics and carvings depicting some disturbingly violent scenes – from a giant sculpture of two cheetah hunting six impala to carpet emblazoned with lions and wolves merrily munching away on various prey.

The Palace of the Lost City - inside Sun City.

The Palace of the Lost City - inside Sun City.

Two features that have genuine wow-factor are Crystal Court,a cavernous,dome-roofed restaurant with a central fountain of four trumpeting elephants,and the 1000-square-metre resort pool,which is surrounded by a sea of daybeds and manicured gardens.

The Palace Grand pool.

The Palace Grand pool.

The whole setup feels like a crazy mishmash of Vegas and Disney,but without the calculated polish of either. Too often the service doesn’t match the five-star price tag,with maddeningly long wait times for meals and requests that are either completely ignored or only begrudgingly acknowledged after several reminders.

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Sun City’s website outlines an admirable list of sustainability and environmental initiatives,covering energy reduction,water conversation and a zero landfill policy. Unfortunately,there’s little evidence of these at the resort. All my towels and non-refillable bathroom amenities are replaced every day and there’s a disappointing amount of single-use plastic.

Rooms big on environmental promise but low on delivery.

Rooms big on environmental promise but low on delivery.

Venture outside the hotel and the complex offers countless diversions,from zip-lining and jet-skiing to golf and game drives. An afternoon safari in neighbouring Pilanesberg National Park turns out to be an unexpected highlight. Set in a dramatic volcanic crater with snaking valleys and soaring hills,the malaria-free park is spectacularly scenic and packed with game. Within an hour,we’ve had decent sightings of four of the Big Five,despite having to jostle for position with other vehicles and not being allowed to go off-road.

The Valley of the Waves water park is another entertaining distraction,with a colossal wave pool,a meandering lazy river and several nerve-testing slides,including the aptly-named Temple of Courage,a near-vertical 17-metre plunge that it takes me several hours to recover from.

In summary,it feels like Sun City is still trying to deliver on its original premise as a giant playground for wealthy South Africans. And perhaps if I lived in Johannesburg and had kids,I’d come back. But as an international visitor to a country with so many other compelling offerings,I think I’ll pass.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Qantas flies to Johannesburg. Sun City is a 2.5-hour drive from Johannesburg Airport. Seeqantas.com

STAY
Rates at The Palace start at R5665 ($466) including breakfast and access to Valley of the Waves. Seesuninternational.com

TOUR
African specialist This is Africa has almost 25 years’ experience and offers all-inclusive packages,group tours and tailor-made itineraries. Seethisisafrica.com.au

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southafrica.net

The writer was a guest of South African Tourism and This is Africa.

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