Diocletian’s Palace,the heart of Split.Credit:iStock
The view
Part of the St Domnius Cathedral complex,the 57-metre-high Gothic and Romanesque bell tower provides an unrivalled 360-degree vista over the city’s jumble of red tiled rooftops,whitewashed houses and crumbling Roman walls. Look west,and you’ll see the wooded promontory of Marjan Hill;look north,and the horizon is dominated by the dramatic Dinaric Alps. Often these sorts of views have to be earned via a dizzying climb up a claustrophobic stairwell. Not here. Instead,it’s an airy ascent up a modern,if somewhat exposed,spiral metal staircase. Tickets €7 ($11).
The stroll
Walking the waterfront – Riva Promenade.Credit:iStock
Known to everyone as Riva,rather than its tongue-troubling official moniker ofObala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda (Quay of the Croatian national revival),this wide seafront promenade offers a breezy respite from Old Town’s tourist-clogged passageways. Running along the south wall of Diocletian’s Palace,it’s a broad,palm tree-lined esplanade dotted with cafes and bars that offer sweeping harbour views and grade-A people-watching. Particularly popular at sunset,when there’s often live music and street entertainers,it’s the city’s preeminent spot for a pre- or post-dinner saunter.
The restaurant
Located in an alleyway just outside Diocletian’s Palace,Villa Spiza is an intimate,no-frills tavern offering a changing daily menu of regional specialities. Expect plenty of fresh seafood,such as anchovies,grilled sea bass,prawn risotto and calamari,and don’t miss the handmade desserts,particularly the tiramisu. Everything is cooked to order from an open kitchen (so it can take a while),but the friendly staff,lively retro soundtrack and excellent Dalmatian wines will keep you entertained. They don’t take bookings so arrive early and bring cash.