The Motlawa River and old town in Gdansk,Poland.

The Motlawa River and old town in Gdansk,Poland.Credit:iStock

Sail on in

Gdansk Bay is enormous and the city sits inland beyond the well-controlled mouth of the Motlawa River. Smaller ships tie up at one of two quays at the harbour entrance,so don’t expect great drama from the ship’s decks. Larger ships have an even less exciting arrival in the industrial port at Gydnia further around the coast. If you’re tucking into your buffet breakfast during the arrival,you won’t miss much.

Berth rites

Obroncow Westerplatte and WOC II quays don’t have much by way of facilities. The town centre is a 15-minute drive in fixed-price taxis with fares that are clearly posted. Westerplatte sits beside a fortress and World War II memorial monument,as well as a small marina from which you can take local cruise-tours into town. Gdynia,meanwhile,is a 45-minute drive. It’s a pleasant,lively seaside town,but you’ll want to trek into Gdansk if you haven’t been before.

Going ashore

Gdansk (or Danzig in German) was an independent Hanseatic League trading port. While it doesn’t have individually outstanding sights,only some small museums,the old-town ensemble is mighty fine. Churches,half-timbered merchant houses and historical warehouses fuse German and Scandinavian styles. The streets are lively with cafe terraces,students and buskers. The Maritime Culture Centre addresses Hanseatic history and amber-trading routes.

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Top of the cuisine hit-list – pierogi dumplings.

Top of the cuisine hit-list – pierogi dumplings.Credit:iStock

Don’t miss

The Solidarity Movement trail,which covers the history of the 1980s anti-communist protests,led by Gdansk shipyard worker and future Polish president Lech Walesa,which saw the toppling of the Soviet-backed regime. The contemporary,well-presented European Solidarity Centre and Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers,both at the Lenin Shipyards,tell the stirring tale.

Get active

Old towns aren’t great places for vigorous sporting activities and,while Gdansk does have some nearby beaches,they won’t wow Australians. However,beyond the old core,it’s one of Poland’s most bicycle-friendly cities,with 180 kilometres of dedicated cycle paths. Get a rental at House of Bikes and head west into hills for the prettiest route. You can also run a 10-kilometre beach route from Gdansk to wellness town Sopot and on to Gdynia.

Best bites

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Polish cuisine makes barely a ripple on the international food scene,and discovering its tastiness is a pleasant surprise. You’ll want to tuck into some hearty,home-style snacks while you’re here,and top of the list should be pierogi dumplings,which resemble large ravioli and can be stuffed with cheese,mincemeat,potato,cabbage,or various stewed fruits. Also satisfying are placki potato pancakes topped with sour cream,kielbasa sausages eaten with bread and mustard,and paczki,a lighter and less oily version of doughnuts filled with jam or jelly.

Further afield

Gdynia is well-connected by train to Gdansk,making it easy to go it alone. Terrific as the city is,if you’ve been before,you might be tempted by an excursion to colossal red-brick Malbork Castle,the former seat of Teutonic Knights,encircled in gigantic walls. Its chapel and chapter house are lovely,and so are its reflections in the Nogat River.

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