Don’t miss the arrival in this throbbing port city. You sail past surprisingly rural-looking islands into Victoria Harbour,which erupts in apartment blocks and skyscrapers and is backed by humped hills. It looks even more spectacular on the sail out,usually after dark,when neon lights glitter.

Berth rites

Small and mid-size ships dock at Ocean Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui in the middle of the harbour action;your cabin might even gaze across the water at Central. Bigger ships tie up at the less conveniently located Kai Tak Cruise Terminal,site of the former airport. Its rooftop park has brilliant harbour outlooks. Free port shuttles connect you to malls and MRT stations,while paid cruise shuttles might take you further.

Going ashore

Ride the rack railway up The Peak for its famous views,and don’t overlook the spectacular urban walk nearby,which takes you around Victoria Peak via Harlech and Lugard Roads. In Central,incense-smoky Man Mo Temple is Hong Kong’s oldest and most important temple. Across the harbour,the city is chronicled through movie screenings and recreations of a fishing junk,herbal medicine shop and old streets in Hong Kong Museum of History. West Kowloon,recently redeveloped into a cultural precinct,has several other museums linked by harbour promenades.