Going ashore

The Acropolis and its museum,Ancient Agora marketplace,Theatre of Dionysus and National Archaeological Museum provide the key classical sights. Below the Acropolis,hilly,cobbled Plaka district is delightful but touristy. Then head to Syntagma Square,overlooked by the peach-coloured parliament,outside which stand national guardsmen front the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Their bizarre slow-motion marching is a sight to behold.

Don’t miss

The sight of Athens and the Acropolis from any of several hills. The highest is Lycabettus,whose summit can be reached by funicular;you can see all the way to Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf from the terrace at the top. Hymettus isn’t nearly as convenient,but you’ll find a serene monastery surrounded by olive trees,flower-splattered meadows and fabulous views.

Get active

The National Garden provides rambling lanes among shady trees and shrubbery. Adjacent Zappeion Gardens are a favourite strolling place for Athenians on summer evenings. A more energetic walk takes you up Philopappos and Pnyx hills,a rocky outcrop from which you get a thrilling Acropolis view.

Best bites

Trendy restaurants supply contemporary versions of Greek cuisine and international food,but ubiquitous tavernas are best bet for sightseers on the hoof. Favourite Greek appetisers include grilled octopus,tzatziki,dolmades (stuffed vine leaves),and slices of eggplant deep-fried in batter. Typical mains include grilled swordfish steak,stuffed squid,skewered lamb,spicy meatballs,and tomatoes stuffed with spiced rice and minced meat,all accompanied by salad.

Further afield

Options include the Athens Riviera and Cape Sounion;Corinth for its ancient ruins,canal and connections with St Paul;and the 4000-year-old archaeological site at Mycenae. Expect a full day,especially given Athens’ notorious traffic. This isn’t a destination in which to attempt distant excursions yourself.