Going ashore

The World Heritage old town is a renovation work in progress,still shabby in parts,but always a wonderful jumble of pastel-painted houses and plunging river views. It isn’t about big sights but agreeable wandering,during which you’ll discover baroque churches,a train station emblazoned with glorious blue tile work,sunlit squares,street markets and fashion boutiques. If you want one must-do,make it Serralves Foundation for contemporary art and delightful gardens.

Don’t miss

Vila Nova de Gaia where river ships tie up,in order to investigate the venerable port wine houses. Famous producers include Ferreira,Croft,Sandeman and Taylors. (Many were founded centuries ago by British traders,which explains the names.) Port tastings will familiarise you with vintage,ruby and tawny varieties,and how this once old-fashioned wine has been modernised for a more youthful market.

Get active

Porto’s steep setting gives legs and lungs a workout. A cycle path takes you along the river towards the Atlantic Ocean;if you intend cycling anywhere else,an e-bike to assist with the terrain might be advisable. You can rent paddleboards and kayaks on the river.

Best bites

Stews,dried cod,seafood and petiscos (tapas) are Porto specialties. If you’re after coffee and pastries,head to Majestic Cafe for Belle Epoque glamour and almond tarts. The city has a thriving contemporary dining scene,no better showcased than at Antiqvvm,which has two Michelin stars,and serves dishes such as chicken with chestnuts and Alentejo ham,and smoked salmon with apple and beetroot foam,from inventive chef Vitor Matos.

Further afield

Northern Portugal beyond the Douro is somewhat overlooked,so by all means take the chance to see more on a shore excursion. The two big destinations are Portugal’s old capital Guimaraes,which has a World Heritage medieval centre and buzzing,arty and student atmosphere,and Braga,a baroque contrast crammed with opulent monuments – and not a few boutiques and bars.