Australia, insurance, car, home, live, holidays

Dockside has a great atmosphere and location opposite the wharf.

ALL roads may lead to Rome but on Rarotonga one road leads ... well,it leads everywhere. The 32-kilometre Ara Tapu sealed road circles the entire island,through villages where squawking chooks run away from barefoot kids and past the gorgeous beaches that have made the Cook Islands a Robinson Crusoe fantasy come to life. Catch a ride on the regular round-the-island bus service,hire a motor scooter or use pedal power to see the sights.

THE BEACHCOMBER GALLERY

THE Cook Islands seduce urbanites from cities all around the world,especially those seekers with artistic spirits. At the Beachcomber Gallery,local artisans display their wares for sale,inspired by the beauty of the islands and its people. Choose from a great selection of black pearl jewellery,carvings,paintings,craftwork and shell art. It's one of the best galleries on the island. Also of interest is the site itself. Originally constructed in 1845 as a Sunday school by prim-lipped missionaries,it has schooled a former Cook Islands prime minister,housed Parliament,survived Cyclone Dolly and today remains supported by its original limestone walls.

Ara Tapu,near corner of Makea Tinirau Road;+682 21938.

PERFUMES OF RAROTONGA

SINCE the early days of English convict ships stopping in the Cooks for supplies,travellers have marvelled at the brown-skinned Polynesian beauty of Cook Islanders. Perhaps it has something to do with the nourishing oils and potions traditionally used here for beautification. At Perfumes of Rarotonga,everything is handmade and smells delicious,from the coconut oil soaps to the gardenia and jasmine floral perfumes. It's a small operation,with affordable prices and personalised service to boot.

Ara Tapu,near Matavera Field;+682 26238;perfumes.co.ck.

COCONUT TOURS

THERE'S only so much lazing about on the beach you can do,right? If you like a bit of adrenalin with your sunset cocktail,talk to the folks at Coconut Tours about their quad bike,island buggy and four-wheel-drive adventure tours. There's no shame in taking the soft option:on the four-wheel-drive tour someone else handles the driving across streams,mountains and rocky terrain to ancient sites and historic landmarks. A traditional lunch near a beautiful waterfall is easy to take.

Ara Tapu,next to Pacific Resort;+682 24004;coconuttours.co.ck.

DOCKSIDE GOURMET TAKEAWAYS

THERE'S no delicate way to put this:Cook Islanders like to eat. Dieting is as foreign here as horse racing at the Vatican. Which is why you know a burger shack is worth its buns if the locals rave about it. Dockside has a great atmosphere and location opposite the wharf. Burgers are served with tropical touches,including banana,pineapple and bacon."Enough for two to share,"say locals,perhaps for the benefit of tourists who might do something as wacky as split a meal. Happy hour is the time to sample local beers and cocktails:discounts are offered from 4pm-6pm every day but Sunday.

Ara Tapu,opposite Avatiu Wharf;+682 22314.

SHIPWRECK HUT,RAROTONGA

ALMOST paradise,we're knocking on heaven's door ... There's something about a beachside bar that makes me want to sing soppy ballads by Heart. Shipwreck Hut is a locals'bar,a relaxed place to kick back and shoot the breeze or gaze out to sea. It's also the home of the Opu Ra Magic house cocktail — a guaranteed chill-out. The decor could be described as Gilligan-meets-shabby-chic with South Seas paraphernalia,old fishing rods,historic photographs and reclaimed signs strewn around.

Ara Tapu,near Akaoa Road;+682 22166;aroabeach.com.

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox.Sign up now.

Rarotonga