To make gallo pinto,red or black beans are cooked on high heat in their own liquid,mashed slightly,and then fried with rice and other ingredients that can include capsicum,coriander,onions,chilli and garlic – and if you’re in Costa Rica,a local seasoning called salsa lizano. This is a classic breakfast dish in Central America,a stomach-filling day-starter.

First serve

Most people agree on the “how” of gallo pinto – that is,how it originated. Rice was introduced to Spain by the Moors;the Spanish,in turn,brought this staple to the Americas with its conquistadors in the 16th century. Beans,meanwhile,had been cultivated in Central America since long before that. By the 18th century,African slaves had been brought to the Americas,and they combined these two cheap,filling ingredients to form a staple dish. Where that dish officially became gallo pinto (meaning “speckled rooster”,after the look of the dish),with coriander and capsicum and the like,is an enduring point of controversy.

Order there

For one of the true classics,call into Soda Tapia in San Jose,Costa Rica (Calle 42,San Francisco,San Jose).