WHY?
The Spanish capital presents an odd mix of grand Habsburg architecture,top drawer cultural institutions and free-wheeling fun. Grand people-watching parks combine with football fanaticism and swankily fashionable districts such as well-heeled Salamanca. But Madrid comes into its element when the sun goes down,as people hop between thousands of tiny bars,all of which have their own distinct personality.
VISIT
Madrid's trio of world class art museums – the Prado,the Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofia – make a rough triangle in the city centre. The Prado is heaviest on old masters,with plenty of works by Goya and Velazquez,and the Reina Sofia has a strong Dali collection and Picasso's masterpieceGuernica. Seemuseodelprado.es,museothyssen.org,museoreinasofia.es.
EAT
Guinness World Records reckons El Botin is the oldest restaurant in the world – and it has been serving up traditional hearty dishes such as juicy suckling pig since 1725. It's touristy,but for a good reason,and the walls covered in rather pretty tile paintings make for an atmospheric backdrop. Mains cost around €18. Seebotin.es.
LOOK