The Temple of Luxor on the Nile.

The Temple of Luxor on the Nile.Credit:Egyptian Tourist Authority.

Sail on in

You ought to be glued to the ship’s deck for the entire Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan,which dishes up a glorious parade of villages,temples,farmland and orange desert landscapes. You’ll also enjoy kids greeting you from bridges and rowboats,and an endless flotilla of passing ferries and feluccas. As you sail into Luxor,you’ll see grand ancient temples and a cacophonous town rise on the east side of the river,while on the west bank lies the brooding silence of the barren hills that lodge pharaohs’ tombs.

Berth rites

The smaller your ship,the closer to town it will likely dock,but all ships tie up somewhere along the east bank’s Corniche. Given poor public transport,most airport transfers are included by cruise companies,saving you worry about exactly where your ship will be. There’s also an airport shuttle that will drop you off at ships.

Going ashore

The long riverside Corniche links old and new Luxor and provides for great strolling,especially when the sun sets across the Nile. You don’t have to go far to see top sights. Luxor Temple is a complex of temples,courtyards,obelisks and sphinxes,onto which has been cobbled a Roman sanctuary and later mosque. It looks spectacular under evening illuminations. Further down the Corniche is the fascinating Mummification Museum and then Luxor Museum,filled with sculpted masterpieces.

Advertisement
The Temple of Karnak’s Great Hypostle.

The Temple of Karnak’s Great Hypostle.Credit:Egyptian Tourist Authority

Don’t miss

The other great temple complex at Karnak,three kilometres downstream from Luxor Temple,now linked on a restored processional Avenue of Sphinxes. Ancient Egypt’s most significant religious complex has an accumulation of 2000 years of architecture of astonishing size. The Great Hypostyle Hall with its soaring papyrus-style pillars is awesome.

Get active

Given the heat and hassle from touts,you might want to stick to your river ship’s gym,if it has one. A splendid shore excursion option,however,is an early morning hot-air balloon ride,which gives you fabulous views over the Nile River,its strip of agricultural greenery,and the desert and arid mountains beyond.

Loading

Retail therapy

If you love tourist kitsch,welcome to seventh heaven. Hone your bargaining skills with the touts and bag yourself a Cleopatra snow dome,stuffed toy camel,model King Tut mask or fake antique. The tourism market provides somewhat better memorabilia in the form of brass lamps,jewellery and spices,but is hot and crowded. For a more tranquil,upmarket experience,try Habiba Gallery beside Luxor Temple or Gaddis&Co on the Corniche which,as well as handicrafts,has interesting old books,maps and photography.

Further afield

Crossing the Nile River to ancient Thebes is an absolute must,since this is the location of a desert necropolis honeycombed with ancient tombs. You aren’t likely to miss it,since shore excursions will take you there. The most famous tomb is that of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings,but the most spectacular for their frescos and hieroglyphics are those of Horemheb,Ramses III and Seti I. In the Valley of the Queens,the vast above-ground Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is yet another ancient Egyptian astonishment for both its size and elaborate decoration.

Sign up for the Traveller newsletter

The latest travel news,tips and inspiration delivered to your inbox.Sign up now.

Most viewed on Traveller

Loading