For all the crowds of the Philosopher’s Path,you’ll find tranquillity on detours towards the hillside. Otoyo-jinja goes mostly ignored by tourists but has a couple of charming stone guardian mice,one holding a scroll and the other a slice of cake that show Japan’s love of the cute predates the Hello Kitty age. Otoyo-jinja is the neighbourhood’s guardian shrine,so you’ll often see locals discreetly clapping to attract the attention of Shinto gods.
5 Pay your respects to the path’s founder
Emperor Go-Shirakawa founded the small Nyakuoji-jinja Shrine in 1160.Credit:Alamy
Nyakuoji-Jinja Shrine dates to 1160,when it was established by a retired emperor. The immaculately kept shrine is hung with white paper lanterns and wooden ema boards inscribed with the wishes of visitors. Note the little wishing cups at the feet of some jizo statues,the guardian deities of children and travellers. On the hillside behind,you’ll find the tomb of 19th century educator Niijima Jo,whose pensive walks gave the Philosopher’s Path its name.
6 Enjoy the sound of water in Eikan-do Temple
Autumn foliage outside Eikan-do.Credit:Alamy
The most charming temple might be Eikan-do,also outrageous with colour in autumn;the trees look magical under evening illuminations. Sit on the wooden verandah of any of the buildings dotted through expansive grounds and contemplate nature. The main hall has an unusual Buddha looking over his shoulder. Glorious wooden stairs lead to Taho-to Pagoda for great city views. Look out for the sunken earthen jar designed to create agreeable musicality when water is poured into it.
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7 Take time out atNanzen-ji Temple
The Philosopher’s Path peters out just before Nanzen-ji. This is one of Japan’s foremost Zen Buddhist compounds,entered through a vast gate taller than the trees. Hojo main hall has painted sliding screens and a renowned Zen garden of well-placed rocks,but you know by now to seek out tranquil corners. Of several sub-temples,choose Tenjuan for its pond and rock gardens,and enjoy a last moment of contemplation before you charge off,back onto the bucket-list trail.