Its aroma fills an entire neighbourhood. People come from far away,battling notorious traffic,for a whiff. Or a bite. Or a whole pig.
It's hard to complain when you're sitting in Premium Economy and there's no-one sitting next to you.
A favourite haunt for this expat is La Mesa Eco Park - the last rainforest in Manila.
The passenger next to me decides to watch an expletive-laden documentary - without headphones.
​General Douglas MacArthur returned,but The Beatles got out of town... The Manila Hotel has some tales to tell.
The city has a surprising number of hidden and rooftop bars perfect for cocktails on warm nights.
At Marikina Shoe Museum,you'll find some of Imelda Marcos'notoriously extravagant collection.
Staying at the'Fairmont Gold'level means breakfast and plenty of freebies.
It's ideal for those on their way to or from the Philippines'beautiful islands and keen to avoid Manila's traffic.
Nicole Ponseca is one of a new wave of chefs changing the way diners think about Filipino food.