Lao Village

Few places will let diners bring a bottle of aged whiskey to enjoy with their meal. But this 30-year-old canteen in Little Vientiane doesn't conform to stereotypes. Framed reproductions of Cassius Coolidge's Dogs Playing Poker series are an odd fit but the pungent and punchy food leaves little need for diversions. Lao-style papaya salad with fermented crab and anchovy dressing is mellower than its Thai equivalent. Dried beef is best eaten hot or the dentist may be needed. The most fun is to be had picking apart the deep-fried quails with lemon pepper sauce. Some dishes,such as the duck eggs (embryo included) and the tripe are strictly for the adventurous.