Sky Mountain

A full house is common at this low-key handmade noodle joint. When they introduced a new menu late last year,some regulars panicked. Did they still do the awesome lamb backbone hotpot? What about the'family salad',a fresh,textural delight with tahini and chilli sauce,and the springy,super-long noodles? Thankfully,it's'Yes'all round,and there are new finds,too:the amusingly named'Explosion Chinese Black Fungus'is actually wood ear fungus,subtly flavoured with spring onion and garlic.'Boiled fish in spicy sauce'undersells itself:the huge bowl is packed with melting white-fish pieces and the broth has a mild smoky chilli flavour. The decor's had a mini spruce-up,too,but remains modest.