IT IS not often I arrive at a restaurant knowing exactly what I will have for dessert but my mind is made up as we step into the King River Cafe and wine centre at Oxley. Owner and chef Ben Bonwick has a reputation for his lemon tart,which has become an icon on the innovative menu full of fresh regional produce.
''I've been making it for years and a lot of love goes into it,''he says.''It's a favourite around here and I use everything local,from the eggs to the lemons.''
The King River Cafe,in the heart of the Milawa gourmet region,is housed in a pub built in the 1860s. Handmade bricks,timber-lined walls and wooden floorboards are reminders of the colonial days.
The rustic cafe with roaring fire is a favourite with the snow crowd passing through in winter and in summer you can sit in the shady courtyard,just a short walk from the King River,or cool off inside in the airconditioning on a hot day.
We start with a tasty capsicum panna cotta with roquette leaves and a walnut dressing ($10) and I am tempted by a double-baked goat's cheese souffle with a pickled spring vegetable salad ($12). A glass of Brown Brothers pinot chardonnay-meunier ($7.50) is a good accompaniment.
The hearty sandwich of black Angus rump marinated in red wine,garlic and thyme served on a buttermilk bun with red onion jam and beetroot fennel chutney ($19) is my husband's choice,while I skip the heavier lunch dishes of lamb and olive ragout ($24) and duck confit ($27) and settle for aubergine lasagne ($19) with a glass of La Zona pinot grigio ($6).
Reluctantly,I agree to share the much-anticipated grand finale:lemon tart ($6.50) with duck-egg rum and raisin ice-cream,which exceeds expectations.
Reviewed by Sue Wallace,who was hosted by North East Victoria Tourism.
King River Cafe and Cellar,1143 Glenrowan-Myrtleford Road,Oxley,5727 3461,see kingrivercafe.com.au. Open:Wednesday to Sunday 10am-late,Mondays 10am-3pm. To stay:nearby options include the King River Cafe B&B and two-bedroom self-contained house (kingrivercafe.com.au);Settlers Boutique Accommodation (settlerscottages.com.au).